Where's the Turkey? What Do Spaniards Really Eat at Christmas?
If you're used to a traditional British Christmas dinner, complete with roast turkey, stuffing, pigs in blankets, roast potatoes and the obligatory Brussels sprouts, your first Christmas in Spain might come as something of a surprise.
For starters, there's no single Spanish equivalent of the British Christmas dinner. What appears on the table depends on the region, family traditions and, quite possibly, what someone's grandmother has been cooking for the last fifty years!
But one thing is certain: the Spanish take their Christmas food very seriously.
Christmas Eve Is the Main Event
In Britain, Christmas Day lunch is usually the centrepiece of the festivities. In Spain, it's traditionally Christmas Eve, or Nochebuena, when families gather for their biggest celebration.
Dinner often begins quite late by British standards, and it can be a wonderfully leisurely affair, with several courses, plenty of conversation and absolutely no rush to leave the table.
Christmas Day is also a family occasion, of course, but the main feast may already have taken place the night before.
First, Bring on the Seafood!
One of the biggest differences you'll notice is the importance of seafood.
Prawns (gambas and langostinos), clams, mussels and other shellfish are Christmas favourites, often served as part of a generous selection of starters.
And don't be surprised to see supermarket seafood counters doing a roaring trade in the run-up to Christmas. For many Spanish families, a platter of prawns is every bit as festive as a turkey is to a British household.
Jamón, Cheese and a Little Something to Start
Before anyone gets near the main course, there may be plates of jamón ibérico, cured meats, cheeses, pâtés and other tempting little dishes.
These starters, or entrantes, are often shared around the table.
It's a wonderfully sociable way to eat, although newcomers should be warned: what looks like a substantial meal may turn out to be merely the beginning!
So, What About the Main Course?
Here's where Spain's regional traditions really come into their own.
Roast lamb (cordero asado) is a Christmas favourite in parts of central Spain, while suckling pig (cochinillo) is another traditional festive dish, particularly in Castile.
Elsewhere, families might serve roast turkey, capon, other meats or a beautifully prepared fish dish.
In Andalucía, a warming bowl of sopa de picadillo, usually made with chicken broth, finely chopped ham and hard-boiled egg, is another traditional favourite.
The important thing is that there isn't one compulsory Christmas menu. Each family has its own favourites, and traditions vary enormously from one part of Spain to another.
Forget Christmas Pudding — Pass the Turrón!
If there's one thing that really says Christmas in Spain, it's the sweets.
You'll find an extraordinary selection appearing in shops from autumn onwards, including:
- Turrón: Traditional almond nougat, available in hard and soft varieties, alongside all sorts of modern flavours.
- Polvorones: Delicate, crumbly little biscuits that have a remarkable tendency to disintegrate as soon as you bite into them.
- Mantecados: Traditional shortbread-like sweets, particularly associated with Andalucía.
- Mazapán: Spanish marzipan, often shaped into little figures.
- Pestiños and borrachuelos: Delicious fried pastries associated with Andalucía, with borrachuelos particularly popular around Málaga.
Rather than serving one large dessert, many families put out trays of Christmas sweets for everyone to enjoy.
And yes, they're every bit as dangerous to the waistline as mince pies.
The Great Spanish Sobremesa
Of course, no discussion of Spanish Christmas dining would be complete without mentioning the sobremesa.
This is the wonderful Spanish tradition of remaining around the table long after the meal has finished, chatting, laughing, enjoying a drink and generally putting off the washing-up for as long as humanly possible.
At Christmas, the sobremesa can last for hours.
Frankly, we think the Spanish might be onto something here.
Different Traditions, Same Christmas Spirit
Whether it's turkey and all the trimmings in Britain or seafood, roast lamb and turrón in Spain, the important ingredients are remarkably similar: family, friends, good food and the pleasure of spending time together.
And if you're a British resident celebrating Christmas in Spain, there's absolutely nothing stopping you from combining the best of both traditions.
Prawns to start, turkey for the main course, turrón with coffee and a leisurely sobremesa afterwards?
Sounds like a pretty good Christmas to us!
Feliz Navidad from all of us at Upsticks!